Why, thank you. Gravity was doing most of the work @ that point. This is my personal favorite, Surfer Mag clipping. Usually I'm slightly out of focus, off center, head turned, etc.. Everything BUT acknowledged or ID'ed. So thanks again...it feels nice.
My guess is that he has a sequence somewhere...sequestered and embargoed like himself... Of me ripping the roof off, about 2.5 seconds later ( after Zig-Zagging thru the lap traffic seen in foreground) then getting barreled to the beach - by North peak.
He got THIS shot because I saw this swinging @ me while paddling back out. Usual take off would be deep in the barrel seen here - but invisible from this camera position.