First described to the west as part
of the record of Cook’s voyage in
HMS Endeavor, Ancient Hawaiians had
long practiced the art of he’enalu-
gliding on waves. Access to the best
surfing spots and beaches was restricted
by class, though skilled surfers of
lower classes could earn the right
to surf these waters. Hawaiian longboards
could be up to 5.5 meters long, and
weigh over a hundred pounds, and
required considerable skill and
prowess to use. Surfing experienced
several “waves” of popularity from the
early 20th century to present, as new
audiences quickly discovered the
righteousness of carving sick pipes
for themselves.