I wanted to put up a good shot of myself... But I got hard copy photos, and some data transfer issues on the good digital stuff. So I took the shirt off of my back, to give you - until I can transfer some things properly. I'll post more when that works out.
I saw that video on YouTube recently - where the still frame of the skimboarder above came from, I suspect. Anyways I saw that wave. It was just about 4' Hawaiian (maybe 8' on the face). Slightly overhead. But the backwash that hit it was ALSO 4'. That's a good explosion for certain.
When Itz smaller - and yet still quite scary - skimmers use their shore-launch speed, to get through the flat spots on the side-wave, waiting for the bowl to do something. This guy got as much as he could handle when it happpened.
O'neill was the first to design the wetsuit - but BodyGlove was first to market. (Unless I got that Backwards).
Bodyglove just sold out to Wall Street. All the formerly sponsored BodyGlove friends and family are Ass'ed-out.
Frankly the egos, and sense of entitlem_ent amongst some of the Meistrell fam (and some of their proz) were already puttin' BG surfers on the edge of my shit -list. Now they getz no love.
I need to get an "in" with O'neill or maybe Hotline... Keep it all soul and NorCal.
